Let us begin with BCBG Max Azria. Usually a designer whose work I admire and have quite a few of his items. His fall 08 collection, however, is another story. Subdued colors; brown suede narrow belts knotted at center front with symmetrically hanging ends flopping about; bubble skirts with hem just underneath the round of one's bottom (perfectly highlighting any bit of cellulite a woman may have); and bodices covered with wide flounced pleates and ruffles hanging from deep necklines, creating too much fussiness, as well as assymetrical bodices, one shoulder necklines with sheer draped and pleated cape-like overlays from shoulder and necklines. In my humble opinion, Max was trying to create volume on the top and bottom, off-setting an odd length and silhouette. Dresses with length were about an inch below the knee and ended up looking sloppy and ill-fitted on the models, especially with pleated elbow-length pleated sleaves. Paired with dreary colors and belts used as an accessory that did not flatter a silk dress (what were the stylists thinking?), these oddly-shaped garments of beautiful italian fabrics came together to create an overall underwhelming collection, though he did throw in a gorgeous coat and a classic wear-forever pantsuit.
Onto Perry Ellis. Gorgeous menswear. I can't wait to shop next fall for my darling husband! These men look like men, the ones you want to snuggle up next to beside a fire. The clothes are wearable and women will love their men in them.
At both Rag and Bone and Nicole Miller, we saw leggings and sexy tight fitted dresses, 80s inspired. Palettes of charteruese, purple and black at both. Rag and Bone topped their leggings and dresses reminiscent of parachute pants with fitted military jackets. Their ensembles clearly had a Parisian or Berlin cabaret effect. Perhaps they were inspired by the band, Berlin with "99 Red Balloons?" They intermixed the school boy/girl look with ties, jackets and wool bermudas (I was sent home after wearing them to junior high school in 1984). Miller induced her tafetta dresses with stripes and 20s Orientalism in printed silk dresses--all very 80s. Have a great evening and party like the 80s tonight...its only the beginning of Fashion Week!!