This is a discussion landscape regarding the au courant in fashion, including all accessories (jewellery, hats, shoes, handbags, et al.) paired with its art and historical origins, placing an academic slant on the usual "hollywoodesque" fashion blog. I am obliged to answer any questions, comments or suggestions one may have regarding today's fashion, its history, museum or runway news, or perhaps questions on what and what not to wear. In posting a subject everyday, I will comment on contemporary fashion news and critique a particular ensemble, pairing it with a historical element. Everyone who wants to learn about fashion is welcome. From questions and comments regarding bridalwear to fashion icons, such as the Graces (Kelly & Mirabella), as well as general questions regarding taste and trends, let's discuss! Remember, we are all students of fashion.

About Me

New York, NY, United States

Anglica Theatrum, W. Hollar (c. 1640)

Anglica Theatrum, W. Hollar (c. 1640)
Hollar was the 1st Fashion Journalist

Sunday, January 20, 2008

The Bad: Spring 2008

As in Sergio Leone's film title, "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly", I believe that I should mix it up a little and begin with the bad. Let's get this out of the way, shall we?

We could start with the pairing of television and model scouting. Has Bravo/NBC heard of ratings? They will be at the bottom as "Make Me a Supermodel" is so bad and most of the models are so average and ill-suited for couture, my brain melted when I forced myself to watch half an episode. But let us stick to what is most important: the collections. As in every season and every collection, the already three mentioned adjectives usually apply and this season is no different. I cannot help but to be a little distracted with the bad when, "the online home of Vogue" is highlighting some of the very worst in their "trend report." I pray none of their highlighted pieces for Spring 2008 will become a trend, ever. The silhouettes are bad, as are the hated neon colors of the eighties.

Their focus on "Nice Stems" I found particularly horrifying ( ). What woman wants to wear this? His garments are always over sized, but is he trying to be so artistic that he has gone overboard? The Dries Van Noten "stem" pattern throughout the collection is sometimes lovely. Some of the items have an exotic, Southeast Asian beach-like appeal with flowing silks fluidly draped around the body like something from "South Pacific." However, overall the collection is sloppy. The silhouettes of the elastic waist-banded skirt or culottes paired with an over sized connecting blouse/bodice with a matching men's style tie is my vote for the bad. The sack-style dresses in this collection look like just that: a silk sack making even a size 0 model's hips look wide. This garment looks like something from the old ladies department at Penney's only the poly was traded in for silk. Fortunately, this concoction is so sad, the only historical reference I can think of is that it is for senior citizens gone blind.

To see more editorial picks from this collection, the cover of January 2008 cover of Vogue is an image of Kate Hudson wearing a bodice from the collection. The shoulders are extremely wide. The colors look great in print and on Ms. Hudson, though could the stylists not find anything else from Spring 2008 collections to photograph for their cover shot? An interesting comment from Harper Bazaar's February 2008 issue is from J.J. Martin, Fashion Features Editor. She chose a lavender and yellow unfitted a-line calf-length dress with voluminous 3/4 length sleeves bound by wide tapering cuffs and a scoop neck. Martin chose this for their section titled "Contributors' Choice," stating that "'Dries has placed these different patterns together on the same bolt of fabric, so I don't have to deal with a 'does this work or not' dressing quandary'" (p. 68). Hmmm. Should not the "quandary" be her job to sort and critique as a fashion editor. Does she have no opinion of her own, but merely chooses what her favorite designers have offered the market?

What about the ensemble from Thakoon highlighted in the "trend report." Overall, I like the collection, but this is one of the bad. This looks like a cheap knock-off of a Zandra Rhodes pattern and if anyone were to find it in one's closet, they would think that they paid too much money for something from the eighties they never wore (or never should have) and it should be thrown out. Please don't send this one to the Salvation Army. It is cruel to think that anyone should be wearing it. This clam-digger trend must stop!

The only trend I see in these two ensembles is a fascination with clowns.

Tomorrow, I will post the ugly. It is also from the "trend report." I just can't help myself.